Lubouv Shmeleva: Chapter 5- Developing a Global Vision

Cartier was founded in Paris, the heart of France, in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. The jeweler quickly gained recognition due to his captivating ability to create unique, highly skillful, and extravagant jewelry pieces. Before long, Cartier entered the world arena, enticing the world's royalty and elite.The company has a long history of serving royalty, as well as stars and celebrities. Cartier SA, the originally family owned company, is now an enormous multinational organization headquartered in Paris which owns and operates more than 200 stores in 125 countries, with five flagship stores world-wide, in Paris on 13, Rue de la Paix, London on 175-177 New Bond Street, New York on 653 Fifth Avenue, Tokyo in Minami Aoyama, and Shanghai on Bund 18, 1st East ZhongShan Road.

The maison began gaining global recognition in Paris around 1855 when the countess of Nieuwerkerke made her first purchase from Cartier. Due to the fact that her husband, the Count of Nieuwerkerke, had connections with Princess Mathilde, he became an intermediary between the Princess and Cartier. Before long, Cartier became a favorite of Princess Mathilde, the cousin of Napoleon III, whose patronage opened the door to Parisian society.

The Count of Nieuwerkerke

Princess Mathilde Bonaparte wearing Cartier(left) and her Vanderbilt Rose Brooch(right)

By 1874 Alfred Cartier took over the company from his father Louis Francois. His son Alfred Cartier and grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, had great hopes and ambitions for Cartier. In 1899, Cartier opened its doors at 13 Rue de Paix, one of the most expensive streets in Paris which was considered the heart of Parisian elegance and luxury, which offered everything an elegant wealthy woman may wish to purchase. This location attracted famous figures from all over the world. Although Cartier started acquiring attention all over the world, Louis, Pierre and Jacques were the ones responsible for establishing the brand name worldwide. The three brother had a global vision for Cartier, setting out to build an empire based in Paris, with customers worldwide.

Alfred, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques Cartier

As the maison became more popular, Cartier expanded their empire and entered the global market by means of direct investment, opening a London branch in 1902, New York branch in 1909, and a branch in St.Petersburg by 1908. Alfred Cartier entrusted his three sons to manage the Maison de Cartier. The eldest son Louis directed the shop in Paris while Alfred Cartier’s younger sons Pierre and Jacque left on voyages to explore the world. They later established themselves in other areas, Pierre in New York, and Jacques in London. The Cartier boutiques attracted the richest elites as well as celebrities and royalty, establishing a name for the maison in the global arena.

In 1904 Pierre Cartier made his first trip to Russia. While Cartier’s first contacts with imperial Russia can be traced back to 1860, the jeweller only won over the country’s aristocracy after Pierre’s first visits to Moscow and St Petersburg in 1904 and 1905. Prince Saltikov, Cartier’s first Russian customer, purchased an emerald bracelet mounted on black-enamelled gold in 1886. Won over by Cartier, he established the jeweller’s reputation in the imperial court. Amongst Cartier's biggest admirers were Maria Feodorovna and Maria Pavlovna who had the power to make or break someone's reputation. In 1907 Maria Feodorovna visited Rue de la Paix to see Cartier's most beautiful creations as well as to express her desire to see a branch opened in St. Petersburg. In 1907, Tsar Nicolas appointed Cartier as an official supplier to the Imperial court, and in 1908, Cartier opened a salesroom in St Petersburg.Pierre Cartier travelled to Russia several times and created ties with artisans from Saint Petersburg who became Cartier suppliers.

Pierre Cartier in a carriage during one of this first trips to Russia

Maria Feodorovna wearing a Cartier tiara/necklace(above) around her neck

Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna wearing a Cartier tiara

Before long Cartier's extravagance and dedication to excellence also got them the royal patronage of the courts of England, Greece, Spain, Portugal and Siam Cartier became the British Royal Family’s jeweller and provided 27 crowns for coronations gaining the reputation as the “King of Jewellery” from King Edward VII. Among Cartier's biggest clients were the Duke and Duchess of Windsor who ordered extravagant and lavishing pieces from the maison. For over 150 years the crowned heads of Europe and the elite around the world have adored the Cartier family’s creations. (Video montage of some of Cartier's most famous creations)

The Duchess of Windsor(left) and a Cartier brooch she owned(right) until it was auctioned off

The scroll tiara commisioned from Catier by King George the VI, 3 weeks before the coronation of Queen Elizabeth I in 1936. The tiara was then passed to their daughter Queen Elizabeth II who never wore it in public, but loaned it to sister Princess Margaret,(upper right picture). She also loaned it to her only daughter Anne (lower left)in her young married years. Queen ELizabeth II most recently loaned this tiara to Catherine Middleton for her wedding to her Grandson Prince William

Because of their huge economical potential, India and China are of growing interest to many multinational corporations with the highest growth rates and two of the world's largest populations. However Cartier's ties to China and India date back to the early 1900s. Chinese and Indian art were equally influential on Cartier artworks from the beginning of the 1910s.

Jacques Cartier with Indian gemstone merchants, 1911

Cartier's ties with India began with Jacques Cartier, a member of the Cartier family, visiting India in 1911 in pursuit of fine pearls. While embarked on his adventure, he was able to persuade a number of royal families to reset their jewels using Cartier designs. The Maharajahs were amazed by the Parisian jewelry and spent lavishly on Cartier pieces. The royalty also entrusted their stones to the jeweller so that they could be set in contemporary mounts, usually in platinum. The most memorable of the pieces is the enchanting ceremonial necklace created for Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala in 1928.This contact with India also inspired Cartier to design his magnificent Indian style pieces, incorporating Indian culture into the designs and color arrangements called the the Tutti Frutti style. Cartier also adopted ancient Indian gem-cutting techniques which further advanced the possibilities of the great jeweler. However, Cartier didn't enter the market in India until October 2008, when they opened their first boutique at the Emporio Mall in New Delhi, in partnership with Navratna Bharat Retail. In January of 2008, Patrick Normand gave an interview regarding Cartier's intentions in India, explaining the ties of the maison with the nation as well as explaining the difficulties that Cartier encountered while trying to set up their business in the country.